Journey Thru Lancaster – Part 2

I woke up at 6am the next morning to make sure I got to the Achenbach bakery before 8am. The bakery itself opened at 5:30am but I figured it must be for the early morning trucker crowd and then the rest of locales would get there before 9:30: making 8am the perfect time for Vicky. I had wanted to try Achenbachs famous “long john” donut  due to their fanatical devout fan base. What was the difference between a “long john” and a regular donut? Was it like a cruller with frosting on top of it? I was hoping it wasn’t, but didn’t expect too much.

I left the hotel around 7am, got there at 730 and grabbed one of the LAST peanut butter long johns left (they also had it in chocolate, vanilla, and vanilla coconut long johns but I just love peanut butter). That’s right, the bakery looked like it had already gone through their big rush by 7:30am. Apparently, in Lancaster, PA opening up at 5:30am is like opening up at 8:30am anywhere else in the country. This took some getting use to during our entire trip and I’m not entirely sure we did it successfully. I also grabbed a glazed pretzel since I was all too curious as to what that would taste like.  Before I go  into the cute little eatery next to Achenbachs bakery, let me tell you my thoughts on their “long john”. It didn’t taste anything like I thought it would – the dough was very yeasty and chewy and the frosting was more creamy and smooth than anything else. It was beyond delicious. I could have eat 12 of them in one sitting had I the desire to gain 15 lbs. The glazed pretzel however was a letdown. It just tasted like a regular glazed donut – nothing special or “pretzely”. If you go down to Lancaster, please indulge in a peanut butter long john. You wont regret it.

Now to the cute little eatery next door – the Home Place Family Restaurant. This is solely a breakfast/lunch spot (closes at 3pm) with great small town feel that I stumbled upon due to my constant need to pee. I sat and watched the servers as I waited for my breakfast and they knew EVERY customers name! The breakfast  – egg white omelet with broccoli and home fries – was of course delicious. I’m almost positive its the only place in the area where you can get a healthy breakfast too, so after you get your long john walk a few more steps and make a stop here too.

After breakfast, we made our way to the Nissley Vineyards and Winery in Bainbridge (about 30 minutes from our hotel). We went early to do their self-guided vineyard tour, the grounds were just lovely – although it was still a bit too early to see the vines in bloom. The tour was brief but fun – I enjoy being able to walk around the grounds without anyone bothering me. After the tour, we made our way to the tasting room to sample some of the wines and I have to say – if you love dessert wines, they make lovely ones. The Spicy Red is like a cold Glühwein, rich with spices(cloves, cinnamon & orange) and fragrance. Their Grapeful White (which won Silver at the 2010 PA Wine Awards) is a delightfully sweet, light bodied wine and intensely grapey. Although I found this wine delightful, my husband claimed it was “cloying” so make sure to steer clear if you aren’t a sweet wine person. I did not try their 2008 Chambourcin (which was suppose to be their best red) but bought a bottle of it for the husband. When we crack it open, I’ll let you know how it is.

We left the vineyards early due to a pending thunderstorm and drove over to Porkys Place (after a stop at the Biggest Shoe House in the world – not my choice). Typical hole-in-the-wall BBQ eatery that served only pulled pork and smoked chicken wings. I was really excited about trying the pulled pork sandwich but since we left in a hurry, I forgot to use any of the sauces they had on the countertop. But I brushed it off thinking I wouldn’t need it – WRONG. It was only after we got back to the hotel we realized the sauces left on the counter were the ONLY sauces for the pulled pork. So basically I was left with a dry, unseasoned pork sandwich. Terrific. Why wouldn’t you at least season the pork?? It was greatly disappointing to say the least. The smoked wings weren’t bad though, a little too smokey for my taste and a tad dry but still – much better than the pork.

My BBQ disappointment left me craving fresh produce, so we made our way to the Bird-In-Hand Farmers Market. I was hoping to grab a few pieces of fruit and maybe some cheese – a lighter dinner than the night before. Walking in was a bit of an overload, fresh produce stands, pretzel booths, bakery stands, meats, cheeses, jams and jellies everywhere, etc. We stopped at the Hummers Smoked Meat and Cheese booth and lo and behold: TURKEY JERKY! Jenny immediately ordered 1/4 lb. of  jerky and while we were walking around the market – ate the entire thing. It wasn’t more than 20 minutes until we were back ordering the jerky again – this time 1/2 lb. Upon leaving we looked at our bags and noticed we had purchased nearly a pound of turkey jerky, a pint of strawberries, several apples, some horseradish cheddar, a whoopie pie, and some small jars of Aunt Ruthies Amish mustard. Sadly, the 4 different varieties of mustard all tasted the same to me: like honey mustard. Why would all of them be so sweet? Disappointing.

Check back here tomorrow to read Journey Thru Lancaster – Part 3, where we’ll visit Downtown Lancaster, the 200 year old Central Market, and organic restaurant Carr’s.

ABC Kitchen

Last night, my boyfriend Joe Wickes and I were treated by our friend, event designer Mark Rose, to dinner at the brand new ABC Kitchen (Executive Chef, Dan Kluger), the new Jean-Georges hot spot committed to organic and local meat and produce. It was a total knockout!

We began with interesting and homespun cocktails like ginger margarita and basil daiquirires, while taking in the decor. White square tables with white, round-backed Grandma chairs — occasionally a long wooden farm table for large parties — and antiqued light bulbs suspended from the ceiling. Everything is warm and dim. The back wall of the large space offers a peek into ABC Carpet and Home (that’s where all the furnishings came from) and a great shot into the kitchen. Since a little of this rustic thing goes a long way, the homey feel of the design is balanced by the waitstaff — all in thrift-store plaid shirts and jeans — attending to customers in a formal and very attentive manner.

Appetizers started with an amazing Peekytoe crabtoast, which was basically a crabby bruschetta; hearty toast topped with chunks of crab and a smooth aioli. The ramp toast with goat cheese, a special, makes you think there just has to be more than ramp spread, cheese, and a dandelion on that bread…gold, perhaps? The chicken liver toast, cooked with pancetta, was so subtle and flavorful, that even a pate’ hater (my boyfriend) had to admire it. Pretzel dusted calamari was an irresistible crunchy version of a favorite.

We shared the pea soup, which immediately impressed with an unusually bright color. It was an electric green broth with whole peas, but mint and lime zest gave it an interesting heat. I admit this was one dish that didn’t blow me away; it was a very inventive and economical use of flavors, which is a theme to ABC’s entire menu.

For the entrées, simplicity was the name of the game. A Flying Pigs pork t-bone in an apple-meyer lemon sauce was complimented beautifully with sautéed swiss chard. A side of asparagus with jalapeno and sliced mushrooms was a salty delight. But stealing the show, decidedly, was a special entree, a cavatelli with spring vegetables. This demanded a call to the waiter to explain every detail. As expected, not many: small slices of asparagus, fava beans, cooked together in the pasta water. But the lemon and dill infused in the dish brought it all home. This was the winner, and I wish I could recommend it, but it’s not a part of the regular menu…not yet, that is. Indeed, Jean George said the menu will change frequently.

The desert selection reminded me of the cocktail menu with its country-kitchen tone. A brown butter, chocolate ganache and hazelnut tart took my breath away. But we couldn’t help asking for a favor: we just wanted one scoop of the salted caramel-peanut ice cream from the sundae dish, and you can only imagine…

The surprise of the night was when we were finishing out cookie plate, and a diminutive man in a white chef’s coat appeared right outside the kitchen talking to a staff member. It was, of course, Jean-Georges himself, who gamely stopped at our table so we could babble about how wonderful everything was. He took it in good humor, but didn’t want to steal the glory from our neighboring diner, the woman who designed the handmade bowls and plates. Very gracious, and what a thrill.

Reservations are becoming impossible, so run! This is a lovely date spot, too.

Cranachan Café

While in Glasgow visiting friends I found myself having lunch at the Cranachan Café in the unlikely (for Scotland) bourgeoisie shopping arcade of Princes Square.  The café’s specialty is as advertised “Coffee & Modern Scottish Fayre” and it is mighty good fare, despite its cutsie Scottish spelling.  

Off their menu I chose to order the Cullen Skink soup ( I’m always attracted to menu items that could easily be misread or mispronounced…I like Poisson) which is a traditional Scottish soup consisting of smoked haddock pieces swimming in a creamy broth with leeks and corn.  Cranachan claimed this was their specialty soup which meant it could either go terribly right or wonderfully wrong, with absolutely no room for anything in between.  Thus, I was anticipating being served a liquid version of Janet Jackson and her exposed nipples, a hit or miss affair depending on mood and timing.

When the dish arrived it had an appearance a bit like that of a  leek and potato soup  and it was also  served with two pieces of hardy looking brown bread.  I could not help but feel I  stepped into a minimal security cafeteria prison where a white collar criminal was about to pinch my credit card details at any moment. My concern thankfully vanished with the first spoonful of Cullen Skink:  the creamy broth had a slightly heavy semi-sweetness about it while the haddock was a melting excursion of meatiness. These flavours made a wonderfully soothing winter soup reticent of a proper New England chowder (found mostly in New York where no actual New Englander is available to perform a culinary massacre).  What made the dish particularly delicious, however, was the brown bread that was served with the soup ( I must admit that if I miss anything by living in the UK it is decent bread). It was flavorsome and absorbent bread perfect for dipping into soup (and perhaps even for some sharp cheddar and Irish butter), the kind of bread one would like to be served for their last living meal. I wish Mary, Queen of Scots, had this delightful bread before her head ended up decorating one of Queen Elizabeth’s front parlors. Imagine the scandal of Elizabeth trying to wipe a smirk of the dead Mary’s face! Alas, even in death Mary disappointed the Scots (and me) but fortunately, back in present times, the bread was a very tasty affair for me.

Unfortunately, however, the combination of the heavy bread and creamy soup meant I was too stuffed to have pudding with my friends, who ended up ordering a sizeable scone (think face, body and stringy limbs of that round headed scientist from the Muppets). I did try the other thing Cranachan advertises, coffee and that happily was a very nice cup of coffee. I highly recommend you visit Cranachan if you find yourself in Glasgow and in need of comfort food, pleasant service and perhaps even some refreshing décor (Timorous Beasties design marks are found throughout the premises).

(For more details please visit Cranachan’s website: http://www.cranachancafe.co.uk/ ).

A Tale of Two Cupcakes

For starters I have to admit, I hardly ever go out for cupcakes anymore. Why? Mostly because I have been so utterly disappointed with the dry/tasteless/sugary loads of crap most people consider good. I’ve had many of the NYC standards: Magnolia’s (the frosting is crap), Cupcake Cafe (the cake is dry), Crumbs (they are too big and are overloaded with too many ‘toppings’), Buttercup Bake Shop (too sweet and always slightly stale).  After awhile, I just stopped attempting to enjoy cupcakes made by other people…until last week.

Don’t ask me why but whilst Christmas shopping I had the urge to take another stab at cupcakes so I decided to hit up 2 spots: Butter Laneand Tribeca Treats. Why these places? They were close to my shopping destinations. Here’s my review on both establishments:

Butter Lane- I walked into their temporary Soho outpost and was immediately hopeful. The atmosphere was simple yet homey. Also the cupcakes didnt look covered in goop/sprinkles but still had interesting flavors like pumpkin and blueberry. I purchased a pumpkin frosting/chocolate cake  to go and began consuming as I walked out the door. I was pleasantly surprised. I mean, they werent mind blowing but they weren’t awful. The frosting was soft but was still substantial and the cake was moist. The drawback, I didnt taste pumpkin AT ALL. I dont know where the pumpkin was or how they tried to infuse the festive flavor into the frosting but it didnt work. Boo. It wasn’t a total loss but was certainly not a win. Onto the next cupcake…

Tribeca Treats- I had avoided this place for years because my sister had insisted that it was a horrible with gross

treats/bad service and I took her word for it. The atmosphere was typically bakery-esk: a few tables, chocolate pictures on the walls, window cases filled with chocolates and baked goods, etc. Maybe it was because I went about 40 minutes before closing, but they did not have too many cupcakes to chose from which started to worry me. I decided to go with the S’more cupcake because it had everything I would want: chocolate cake with marshmallow icing and topped with graham cracker crumbs. Once again, I started consuming as soon as I stepped out the door. After the 2nd bite I knew I had found it: the cupcake of my dreams. The frosting was soft, billowy, and sweet without being cloying. The cake was moist, delicous, and fresh. The graham cracker crumbs ontop of the frosting werent stale or hard, they were soft and buttery. Better yet? Everything tasted as advertised!!  It actually TASTED like a s’mores instead of just sugary glop. I immediately called my sister while she was at work to yell at her for giving me such bad advice.

In summation: if you’re in the Financial District or Tribeca and are looking for a sweet snack – stop on into Tribeca Treats and get yourself something…no matter what your sister may tell you.