ABC Kitchen

Last night, my boyfriend Joe Wickes and I were treated by our friend, event designer Mark Rose, to dinner at the brand new ABC Kitchen (Executive Chef, Dan Kluger), the new Jean-Georges hot spot committed to organic and local meat and produce. It was a total knockout!

We began with interesting and homespun cocktails like ginger margarita and basil daiquirires, while taking in the decor. White square tables with white, round-backed Grandma chairs — occasionally a long wooden farm table for large parties — and antiqued light bulbs suspended from the ceiling. Everything is warm and dim. The back wall of the large space offers a peek into ABC Carpet and Home (that’s where all the furnishings came from) and a great shot into the kitchen. Since a little of this rustic thing goes a long way, the homey feel of the design is balanced by the waitstaff — all in thrift-store plaid shirts and jeans — attending to customers in a formal and very attentive manner.

Appetizers started with an amazing Peekytoe crabtoast, which was basically a crabby bruschetta; hearty toast topped with chunks of crab and a smooth aioli. The ramp toast with goat cheese, a special, makes you think there just has to be more than ramp spread, cheese, and a dandelion on that bread…gold, perhaps? The chicken liver toast, cooked with pancetta, was so subtle and flavorful, that even a pate’ hater (my boyfriend) had to admire it. Pretzel dusted calamari was an irresistible crunchy version of a favorite.

We shared the pea soup, which immediately impressed with an unusually bright color. It was an electric green broth with whole peas, but mint and lime zest gave it an interesting heat. I admit this was one dish that didn’t blow me away; it was a very inventive and economical use of flavors, which is a theme to ABC’s entire menu.

For the entrées, simplicity was the name of the game. A Flying Pigs pork t-bone in an apple-meyer lemon sauce was complimented beautifully with sautéed swiss chard. A side of asparagus with jalapeno and sliced mushrooms was a salty delight. But stealing the show, decidedly, was a special entree, a cavatelli with spring vegetables. This demanded a call to the waiter to explain every detail. As expected, not many: small slices of asparagus, fava beans, cooked together in the pasta water. But the lemon and dill infused in the dish brought it all home. This was the winner, and I wish I could recommend it, but it’s not a part of the regular menu…not yet, that is. Indeed, Jean George said the menu will change frequently.

The desert selection reminded me of the cocktail menu with its country-kitchen tone. A brown butter, chocolate ganache and hazelnut tart took my breath away. But we couldn’t help asking for a favor: we just wanted one scoop of the salted caramel-peanut ice cream from the sundae dish, and you can only imagine…

The surprise of the night was when we were finishing out cookie plate, and a diminutive man in a white chef’s coat appeared right outside the kitchen talking to a staff member. It was, of course, Jean-Georges himself, who gamely stopped at our table so we could babble about how wonderful everything was. He took it in good humor, but didn’t want to steal the glory from our neighboring diner, the woman who designed the handmade bowls and plates. Very gracious, and what a thrill.

Reservations are becoming impossible, so run! This is a lovely date spot, too.

Manhattan Restaurant Ennui

Screw you, Jay Leno. Really, I do not like you. I’m sick of your ego and your chin and I want my obscene, seven foot tall red head back. I don’t want to hope failure upon anyone – well I do, but I know that’s wrong so I have to show self-restraint and keep my karma on a semi-good balance – so I hope you get an incurable butt itch or something else severely uncomfortable for the rest of your days. I just had to say that and get it out of my system.

 

Anyways, what I was really here to ‘scuss was how I need to take a break from Manhattan. Well, not the city itself, but the restaurant scene. Well, not enjoying the restaurant scene, but working in the Manhattan restaurant scene. I tried to stick it through, and I think I did pretty well, but after five years of long commutes to and through Manhattan from Staten Island, I’m tired! In the time it takes me to get to work (about an hour and fifteen) I could take a flight to D.C.! Or the time it took me to get to school via bus-ferry-train-train (two and a half hours) I could have driven to Atlantic City! Or Woodstock! Or I could have flown to Detroit! Not that I find any reason to take a flight to Detroit… the point being, I love Manhattan with all my heart, but this long distance relationship is very trying.

 

Things were so much easier when I lived in Fort Greene. Manhattan and I would spend so many endless summer nights together, and it never mattered how late I was out because I had an unlimited metrocard, the Q ran every fifteen minutes aaaalll night long and I lived a fifteen minute train ride away. The commute, which took me over the Manhattan Bridge, treated me to a beautiful view of the harbor between Brooklyn and Manhattan and its sister bridges, nightly (how romantic!). Manhattan and I were inseparable. Until I went back home.

Maybe I should have taken a job somewhere where the food meant more than giving the b&t crowd what they want. Tacky dishes and oversized portions. It’s sickening! “Corn cappuccino” I think was what irked me the most. It was soup. No, broth.  It was a boring corn broth with some foam on top. If the rest of the menu doesn’t reflect a passion for hi-tech gastronomy, then why do it at all? That’s why the corn capp is a failure, its not honest, it’s show-boaty! So there’s the cappuccino, and the soy-ginger salmon, and the halibut with gnocchi, and the rib-eye, the hanger steak with chimichurri, and the soufflé. Have you caught on to what cuisine we’re actually supposed to be enjoying? Did you figure out from what part of the world we’re focusing our flavors from, or drawing inspiration? Neither did I. It must be an eclectic Japa-Hispan-Ita-French-erican land. What brilliance!

 

I need to step out, take a deep breath and find a place where I can be around some real, good, honest, love-filled cooking. Yet, what holds me back is the personal thing I have. Everyone has a thing and mine is “don’t work where you love.” I’m not saying don’t love where you work. I hope you love where you work; I want to love where I work! But if you already love a place, my personal example would be Bar Boulud, it would not be a good idea to become a behind-the-scenes member. It can and will ruin, or at least taint, your love for said establishment! You love it because of the ambiance, the ambiance from your outside point of view (and you can come and go as you please because you don’t work there!) You love it because of the delicious food, the delicious food you don’t see a hundred times a night, four nights a week. You also love the friendly staff, of which you don’t know personally and so niceties are required, and the management is just stellar, because you don’t work under them. See my point? I came very close to getting burned by the love fire when I interviewed with Boulud’s Dinex group. I was so honored and enthralled that they were interested in. I beefed up my resume and I put on my best smile for the first interview with HR at the Dinex headquarters. So there I sat, waiting in the conference room surrounded by personal photos on Daniel himself and all his awards. I’m talking James Beard awards, Michelin Stars, Wine Spectator awards, and on and on just lining the walls (oh man! Ooohhh man!). I sat and soaked in my surroundings in awe, just hoping the woman interviewing me would be preoccupied for just a little longer. She loved me (woohoo!) and referred me to Bar Boulud (omg omg omg).

 

From there things got tense, fast. The GM was one of the most intimidating Frenchmen I’ve met,  to date. Not that I’ve met a lot-a lot of Frenchmen, but I’ve met plenty of foreign men! Now, this man isn’t even my boss yet, if he even will be at all, but he goes on telling me how he is very particular about what his hostesses wear, how they stand, where they stand, punctuality, language, attitude, poise (poise?? Shit…all women in France have natural poise… crap crap crap), memorizing regulars and their likes and dislikes, yadda yadda and more yadda. Oh man, this is already crumbling the façade that keeps real Bar Boulud hidden from me. I don’t like this! So, I declined on the offer. Phew! That was close. Too close.

 

So if not the cheap and gaudy mega-restaurants, and if not the amazing fine dining restaurants from truly talented chefs, then where? Where will I be happy until I get a degree and a job and become a real person?

I’ve decided to venture. It would only be a personal venture, since I’m actually going to stay closer to home. There are two approaches I’m deciding between: sniff out hidden jewels in Staten Island, or work in well known, foodie-respected establishments in Brooklyn. So will it be Marlow & Sons or Dosi Café?  Juliette or Angelina’s? I have little to no opinion on both sides and the Brooklyn food scene is something that I am sadly unfamiliar with.

 

Like Anthony Bourdain, I’m afraid I missed the boat on the whole Brooklyn chefs movement. Of course, the next big “up and coming” NYC restaurant destination borough is Queens, so does this make Bk passé or a well established land of gastronomic giants? I think that’s up for discussion another time…

 

Breakfast at Benjamins Steakhouse

I walked into this place one day for breakfast at approx. 11:30am. Everything felt rushed. Their breakfast buffet had apparently just closed for the day and the waiters were bussling to fix the floor. It was rather empty – about 3 tables full including myself. The service in the beginning ws abrupt but it didnt surprise me. Everyone dismisses you when you arrive in a hoodie with sunglasses and wet jeans (it was raining, gimme a break). I wasnt getting a great vibe so I sat there and sipped my Lady Earl Grey and awaited what I thought was going to be a horrendous breakfast.

Then the food came out and it was delicious. The eggs were poached to perfection and the potatoes were soft on the inside, crispy on the outside, and seasoned well - nothing soggy/overly hard/ or tasteless. That aside, the homemade roast beef hash was the main focus of the dish and it was delightful. It had full chunks of freshly made/diced beef and potatoes. Straightforward and gosh darn amazing. The only mystery on the plate was the sorta citrusy hollandise that was served in a cup and put to the side. The menu didnt mention the inclusion of this item and frankly it was necessary…but it was still yummy and light.  Also, I didnt receive toast. Did the chef decide to give me hollandise instead of toast with my breakfast? Why add on the extra calories of the hollandise but not include toaste. Poached eggs without toast? It wasnt a big deal…just puzzling.

Review conclusion: the roast beef hash is so delicious I plan on eating it again and again even with the lack of toast and hurried service.

Double Crown

Double Crown has an interesting theme. It explores the culinary dualities of Indian and Southeast Asia after the the British Empire’s influence. What could that possibly mean you ask? Well it means Bowery’s got a hip new spot (relatively new) that features Bangers and Mash, Butternut Squash Curry and Braised Pork Belly with Ginger-Lychee dressing. Confused? Dont be – Brad Farmerie (thats right the one currently on The Next Iron Chef) executes it well.

We started the meal with the spicy pork stuffed lychees. These were delicious  – I highly recommend ordering them even if you’re going in just to have a beer or two. The sit in a light coconut sauce and hit all the major tastebud flavors: salty, sweet, spicy, and a light sour. Keep in mind, they only come 3 in a plate so if you’re in a group order at least 2 or 3 plates. They will FLY!

Then we got the entrees: Twice Cooked Chicken, Bangers and Mash with WOW WOW sauce, and the Butternut Squash Curry. The Twice Cooked Chicken was so incredibly moist – I mean incredibly. I didn’t have to use a knife at all for my entire meal. Granted, the broth was a bit watery but the chicken itself was flavorful and in the end I guess thats what counts. The Bangers and Mash was very vinegary due to the wow wow sauce, which I happen to like but some people might not. The bangers were also a bit dry (emphasis on ‘bit’). The Butternut Squash Curry was a great vegetarian entree, meaty consistency, flavorful, and filling. All in all – the entrees were solid – especially the chicken. In terms of

Twice Cooked Chicken

side dishes we ordered the brussel sprouts and the pickled cucumbers. Both were great choices. The brussel sprouts were a little more charred than I usually like them but the flavor – OH the flavor – was excellant. Spicy and slightly sweet with that delicious mini-cabbage taste I’ve grown to love over the years. The pickled cucumbers with yogurt sauce were an excellant contrast considering most dishes had an element of heat.

Now its time to discuss the desserts. We chose 2: the panna cotta with goat milk ice cream and the hot fudge brownie sundae with shitaki ice cream. The panna cotta was delightful but I had a problem with the hot fudge sundae..mostly because it WASN’T HOT! DO YOU HEAR ME DOUBLE CROWN? I’m sorry, a cold brownie and cold chocolate sauce do not a hot fudge sundae make. Its ice cream with chocolate sauce at that point..which is ok…just don’t call it a hot fudge sundae. So when you visit Double Crown make sure you DON’T order the sundae.

In summation the dinner was a delight. The flavors weren’t quite Indian, or Southeast Asian, or British – which is exactly why I enjoyed it. If you are in the area make sure you go AND don’t forget the awesome gin joint next door. You have to go through a ‘hidden’ door in the back of the restaurant (pretty koooooool) and then you can enjoy the latest cocktail to enthrall NYC: gin and jam. Housemade jams, served in a little teaspoon alongside gin and lemon over crushed ice.

316 Bowery
New York, NY 10012
(212) 254-0350

http://www.doublecrown-nyc.com/

Smorgas Chef

Smorgas Chef was one of my first experiences with Scandinavian cooking several years ago and I fell in love with it.  The food features vibrant herbs and delicate flavors. Cloudberries, lingonberries, herring, house-cured gravlaks, and Norwegian Jarlsberg cheese are all over the menu and its fabulous.

I’m particulary fond of their brunch menu – which features delicious skillet baked eggs. Whats a skillet baked egg?  Two pan fried eggs in a cast iron skillet with ham, Jarlsberg cheese, spinach, tomatos, and hollandaïse. Amazing. So amazing. You wont need to eat anything else for the rest of the day. They also have one with just mushrooms and veggies and one with baked cod, tomatoes, spinach, and parmesan. They also make very light and fluffy vanilla waffles with clouberry sauce. Mmmmmm..

Brunch not your thing? The swedish meatballs with chive mashed potatoes and aquavit cured gravlaksare awesome. Go here, try some of the food, and let me know just how much you liked it.

Wall Street Location:

53 Stone Street New York, NY 10004
(between Broad Street and Hanover Square; 2 blocks south of Wall Street)

My Foodie Crush on Daniel Boulud

Daniel Boulud is quite possibly the classiest NYC celebrity chef ever. End of Story.  Now there is talk of a new Boulud restaurant and much like a 12 year old girl waiting for the Jonas Brothers show to come on - I am on the edge of my seat. There are few things we know. We know it will be located on the Bowery, we know it will have an intense beer menu, and we know he will focus on bistro/casual food.

My foodie crush with Daniel started when I was in high school. Around 1998/1999 I subscribed to all the culinary magazines I could afford –  Bon Appetit and Gourmet Magazine. Since I was still unemployed, I would save up my lunch money and spend it on both of these fine publications. Any chef/restaurant that was featured in the ‘Best Of’ section soon became my obsession. Daniel’s name was often brought up and was always followed with nothing but praise. His gem of a restaurant - appropriately named “Daniels” – was outrageously expensive compared to my high school budget of nada. I had to put my dreams of indulging in the luxury that was Daniels on the back-burner.

That is until 2002, my boyfriend (now husband) was turning 20 and I had saved $300 to take him to the classiest restaurant I could think of – I even bought myself a $125 Guess dress to wear to the occasion. This was already shaping up to be the most indulgent night of my life to date. I had never spent more than $75 on anything up until then. We arrived at 5:45 – the earliest time they had since we needed to catch the 10pm express bus back to Staten Island. The atmosphere was intense, lush reds and gold. I felt special automatically. Dave and I were terribly awkward ordering the food and trying to be as proper as we possibly could. The waitstaff was incredibly sweet considering how young and poor  we were – they treated us the same way they treated their other patrons – although I wouldn’t blame them if they snicked in the kitchen on these dining noobs. I don’t remember everything I ate. Only colors, scents, and flavors. Skate in brown butter, olive-rosemary bread, succulent sea scallops, and warm madelines straight from the oven. It was the best dinner I had the pleasure of savoring at age 19. After that night, I was hooked. I was hooked on his flare, his classiness, his flawless execution, and most importantly his ability to make my mouth water.

I returned to Daniels several times after that night, each time just as delicious as the first. Then I branched out to the other Daniel Boulud NYC restaurants: DB Bistro Moderne, Cafe Boulud, and Bar Boulud. Each restaurant having its own unique take on food and presentation – yet still managing to stay very ‘Boulud’ in execution. Now I hear he’s got a new restaurant opening this spring on Bowery: DBGB. I will be there opening week. Mark my words.I will eat and drink and be happy surrounded by all things Boulud.

Usually I steer clear of LES, finding very little – if any – charm in its neighborhood shenanigans. However for you Boulud I would walk from South Ferry to the door.

More to come on DBGB at a later date…