The Eyeful

London is just one of those cities where a great dining experience can be just around the corner. Unfortunately, it is also like every major western city where around the corner you will find a fried chicken shack or a cup of really watered down Ethiopian coffee. In order to avoid such pitfalls of horrifying consumption you really have to keep your eyes and ears on the prowl for new and interesting places. While riding the No. 14 bus up Piccadilly Road, my eyes caught sight of one such place called Napket. After quickly googling their menu and noting their by line of ‘Snob Food’ I instantly Facebooked my friend with an invitation to join me for dinner.

The following week I met my friend on Piccadilly road for our arranged date at Napket. Alas our meeting point was the granddaddy of the macaron, Laduree, and given that I recently classified the macaron as the synthetic cousin of the cupcake my spirits were crackling like the fine underbelly fat of a roasting piglet. Luckily in entering Napket my spirits were lifted by the cool interior contrast of the black panelling and furnishing with the hanging silver chandeliers and exposed brick walls. In researching online I discovered that this eating area is referred to as the ‘living room’ with the ‘library’ room placed further inside the establishment for those intending to only consume beverages.

Having dotted on the unmistakably ‘wow factor’ ambiance I can get to the bread and meat of the matter. The ‘living room’ and the ‘library’ were both being attended to by the same two person waiting staff. Thus it was no surprise to us that we had quite a wait to place our order as well as to actually lay our taste buds upon it. However, the Eastern European staff was pleasant and a bit quirky. When we inquired about their bread (something the pantry by the entrance of Napket makes look very tempting) we were told ‘I’m sorry but the bread is still in the oven, would you mind waiting for when it is out?’ I believe the grimace on my face may have confused the waiter…

Eventually I was served my order of a French Onion soup with a gruyere crouton. It is debatable if this was a soup or rather a dish with an enormous piece of toasted brown bread with cheese submerged in a bit of broth. This visual technicality turned out to be only a nomenclatural technicality as this dish was indeed French Onion soup. It had that unmistakable caramelised onion flavour while the ‘crouton’ had the rich and heavy cream taste that is typical of a gruyere topping. I must admit, this rustic (check out the cast iron dish it was served in) interpretation of one of my all time favourite soups was mentally refreshing but physically far too satisfying. I believe the soup could have done with more broth and a smaller portion of ‘crouton’ as the overall package was a bit heavy. Having said that, if I was Bobby Brown and the soup was Whitney Houston, I would totally hit that bitch again and again.

Helena Maratheftis, my dining companion and photographer (she took the accompanying photos) had placed a far superior order to mine. Whilst I forgot the formal menu name it was a chicken casserole dish which I sampled and subsequently proclaimed divine. The chicken was absolutely perfectly, it was soft and tender with a light meaty after taste that indicated it was cooked lovingly in the ‘just right’ amount of herbs and spices. Having said that, I would like to caution the reader that I do not know the extent to which this review of the chicken dish was biased by the ‘BUT MOMMY I want what she has!’ syndrome.

Napket, it is a place to feast your eyes and share some intimate moments with your plus one or plus more. If you so should choose to go beyond the many cafe-esque beverages on offer in order to dine then be prepared to be spoiled. With home comfort foods gone professional, Napket more than satisfies the stringent demands of proper food snobs like us here at Love Food Love Me and does so at reasonable prices. If you are in London you are always welcome to treat me to a meal here.

Napket (Piccadilly), SnobFood Ltd
www.napket.com
5 Vigo Street, London
(44) 20 7734 4387

Soft Scrambled Eggs

This is one of my favorite lazy Sunday brunch treats. The combo of soft eggs and pesto remind me of the Sunday brunches my husband and I use to have at Noho Star just about every weekend (I dont know why, we just love that place!). Please note: this is not an everyday egg dish since its hardly low in calories. Its a decadent and delicious way to celebrate breakfast every once and awhile.

Eggs:

4 eggs

1/4 cup of heavy cream

1 pinch of salt

1 pinch of ground black pepper

1 ts of unsalted butter

Pesto:

1 cup of fresh basil

2 tbs of pignoli nuts

1 clove of garlic

1/4 cup of olive oil

1/4 cup of parmesean

Loaf of Italian bread or baguette

goat cheese

*Make the pesto first since this can easily be made a head of  time and you dont want to get distracted while cooking the eggs.*

Grind pignoli nuts in food processor first. Add the basil, garlic, and salt to the mix and process until it  forms a paste.  Slowly drizzle in the olive oil, then add the Parmigiano 1 tablespoon at a time - until thick. Set aside covered.

 Heat up butter in a pan on low heat while whipping eggs and cream together in a bowl. Once combined and butter foams, add egg and cream mixture to the pan. Slowly stir the eggs from the outside of the pan to the center with a rubber spatula until the eggs form soft little pillows.This will take about 10 minutes.

Cut the bread up in thin slices and toast. Slather a good amount of goat cheese on each slice after toast, then pesto, then top with scrambled eggs. Delicious.

Manhattan Restaurant Ennui

Screw you, Jay Leno. Really, I do not like you. I’m sick of your ego and your chin and I want my obscene, seven foot tall red head back. I don’t want to hope failure upon anyone – well I do, but I know that’s wrong so I have to show self-restraint and keep my karma on a semi-good balance – so I hope you get an incurable butt itch or something else severely uncomfortable for the rest of your days. I just had to say that and get it out of my system.

 

Anyways, what I was really here to ‘scuss was how I need to take a break from Manhattan. Well, not the city itself, but the restaurant scene. Well, not enjoying the restaurant scene, but working in the Manhattan restaurant scene. I tried to stick it through, and I think I did pretty well, but after five years of long commutes to and through Manhattan from Staten Island, I’m tired! In the time it takes me to get to work (about an hour and fifteen) I could take a flight to D.C.! Or the time it took me to get to school via bus-ferry-train-train (two and a half hours) I could have driven to Atlantic City! Or Woodstock! Or I could have flown to Detroit! Not that I find any reason to take a flight to Detroit… the point being, I love Manhattan with all my heart, but this long distance relationship is very trying.

 

Things were so much easier when I lived in Fort Greene. Manhattan and I would spend so many endless summer nights together, and it never mattered how late I was out because I had an unlimited metrocard, the Q ran every fifteen minutes aaaalll night long and I lived a fifteen minute train ride away. The commute, which took me over the Manhattan Bridge, treated me to a beautiful view of the harbor between Brooklyn and Manhattan and its sister bridges, nightly (how romantic!). Manhattan and I were inseparable. Until I went back home.

Maybe I should have taken a job somewhere where the food meant more than giving the b&t crowd what they want. Tacky dishes and oversized portions. It’s sickening! “Corn cappuccino” I think was what irked me the most. It was soup. No, broth.  It was a boring corn broth with some foam on top. If the rest of the menu doesn’t reflect a passion for hi-tech gastronomy, then why do it at all? That’s why the corn capp is a failure, its not honest, it’s show-boaty! So there’s the cappuccino, and the soy-ginger salmon, and the halibut with gnocchi, and the rib-eye, the hanger steak with chimichurri, and the soufflé. Have you caught on to what cuisine we’re actually supposed to be enjoying? Did you figure out from what part of the world we’re focusing our flavors from, or drawing inspiration? Neither did I. It must be an eclectic Japa-Hispan-Ita-French-erican land. What brilliance!

 

I need to step out, take a deep breath and find a place where I can be around some real, good, honest, love-filled cooking. Yet, what holds me back is the personal thing I have. Everyone has a thing and mine is “don’t work where you love.” I’m not saying don’t love where you work. I hope you love where you work; I want to love where I work! But if you already love a place, my personal example would be Bar Boulud, it would not be a good idea to become a behind-the-scenes member. It can and will ruin, or at least taint, your love for said establishment! You love it because of the ambiance, the ambiance from your outside point of view (and you can come and go as you please because you don’t work there!) You love it because of the delicious food, the delicious food you don’t see a hundred times a night, four nights a week. You also love the friendly staff, of which you don’t know personally and so niceties are required, and the management is just stellar, because you don’t work under them. See my point? I came very close to getting burned by the love fire when I interviewed with Boulud’s Dinex group. I was so honored and enthralled that they were interested in. I beefed up my resume and I put on my best smile for the first interview with HR at the Dinex headquarters. So there I sat, waiting in the conference room surrounded by personal photos on Daniel himself and all his awards. I’m talking James Beard awards, Michelin Stars, Wine Spectator awards, and on and on just lining the walls (oh man! Ooohhh man!). I sat and soaked in my surroundings in awe, just hoping the woman interviewing me would be preoccupied for just a little longer. She loved me (woohoo!) and referred me to Bar Boulud (omg omg omg).

 

From there things got tense, fast. The GM was one of the most intimidating Frenchmen I’ve met,  to date. Not that I’ve met a lot-a lot of Frenchmen, but I’ve met plenty of foreign men! Now, this man isn’t even my boss yet, if he even will be at all, but he goes on telling me how he is very particular about what his hostesses wear, how they stand, where they stand, punctuality, language, attitude, poise (poise?? Shit…all women in France have natural poise… crap crap crap), memorizing regulars and their likes and dislikes, yadda yadda and more yadda. Oh man, this is already crumbling the façade that keeps real Bar Boulud hidden from me. I don’t like this! So, I declined on the offer. Phew! That was close. Too close.

 

So if not the cheap and gaudy mega-restaurants, and if not the amazing fine dining restaurants from truly talented chefs, then where? Where will I be happy until I get a degree and a job and become a real person?

I’ve decided to venture. It would only be a personal venture, since I’m actually going to stay closer to home. There are two approaches I’m deciding between: sniff out hidden jewels in Staten Island, or work in well known, foodie-respected establishments in Brooklyn. So will it be Marlow & Sons or Dosi Café?  Juliette or Angelina’s? I have little to no opinion on both sides and the Brooklyn food scene is something that I am sadly unfamiliar with.

 

Like Anthony Bourdain, I’m afraid I missed the boat on the whole Brooklyn chefs movement. Of course, the next big “up and coming” NYC restaurant destination borough is Queens, so does this make Bk passé or a well established land of gastronomic giants? I think that’s up for discussion another time…

 

My Meat Sauce

My grandfather use to be very secretative when it came to his sauce, actually when it came to his food in general. Now my meat sauce isn’t really his recipe exactly but it’s close. What’s the key? Pork. Its amazing what pork can do to a red sauce.  The below is not a typical meat sauce nor is it a bolognese (no carrots or celery).

Ingredients

1 can crushed tomatoes

1 can tomato paste

1 cup of red wine

2 pork braccioles (thin pork cutlets wrapped up with parsley, cheese, and prosciutto)

2 minced shallots

1 minced garlic clove

6 links of plain sausage meat (remove casing)

1 cup of sliced mushrooms

3 tbs of extra virgin olive oil

In a pressure cooker saute shallots and garalic in olive oil until translucent. Cook sausage meat in with onions and shallots. When sausage meat is browned, add tomato paste and stir.  Then add the mushrooms, crushed tomatoes, red wine, and braccioles.

Now set your pressure cooker on low and cook for the appropriate times on your pressure cooker (mine is about 15-20 minutes). Let your pressure cooker cool and when it is ready, remove the lid. Bring the sauce to a boil and cook for an additional 30 minutes to thicken the sauce.

Double Crown

Double Crown has an interesting theme. It explores the culinary dualities of Indian and Southeast Asia after the the British Empire’s influence. What could that possibly mean you ask? Well it means Bowery’s got a hip new spot (relatively new) that features Bangers and Mash, Butternut Squash Curry and Braised Pork Belly with Ginger-Lychee dressing. Confused? Dont be - Brad Farmerie (thats right the one currently on The Next Iron Chef) executes it well.

We started the meal with the spicy pork stuffed lychees. These were delicious  - I highly recommend ordering them even if you’re going in just to have a beer or two. The sit in a light coconut sauce and hit all the major tastebud flavors: salty, sweet, spicy, and a light sour. Keep in mind, they only come 3 in a plate so if you’re in a group order at least 2 or 3 plates. They will FLY!

Then we got the entrees: Twice Cooked Chicken, Bangers and Mash with WOW WOW sauce, and the Butternut Squash Curry. The Twice Cooked Chicken was so incredibly moist - I mean incredibly. I didn’t have to use a knife at all for my entire meal. Granted, the broth was a bit watery but the chicken itself was flavorful and in the end I guess thats what counts. The Bangers and Mash was very vinegary due to the wow wow sauce, which I happen to like but some people might not. The bangers were also a bit dry (emphasis on ‘bit’). The Butternut Squash Curry was a great vegetarian entree, meaty consistency, flavorful, and filling. All in all - the entrees were solid - especially the chicken. In terms of

Twice Cooked Chicken

side dishes we ordered the brussel sprouts and the pickled cucumbers. Both were great choices. The brussel sprouts were a little more charred than I usually like them but the flavor - OH the flavor - was excellant. Spicy and slightly sweet with that delicious mini-cabbage taste I’ve grown to love over the years. The pickled cucumbers with yogurt sauce were an excellant contrast considering most dishes had an element of heat.

Now its time to discuss the desserts. We chose 2: the panna cotta with goat milk ice cream and the hot fudge brownie sundae with shitaki ice cream. The panna cotta was delightful but I had a problem with the hot fudge sundae..mostly because it WASN’T HOT! DO YOU HEAR ME DOUBLE CROWN? I’m sorry, a cold brownie and cold chocolate sauce do not a hot fudge sundae make. Its ice cream with chocolate sauce at that point..which is ok…just don’t call it a hot fudge sundae. So when you visit Double Crown make sure you DON’T order the sundae.

In summation the dinner was a delight. The flavors weren’t quite Indian, or Southeast Asian, or British - which is exactly why I enjoyed it. If you are in the area make sure you go AND don’t forget the awesome gin joint next door. You have to go through a ‘hidden’ door in the back of the restaurant (pretty koooooool) and then you can enjoy the latest cocktail to enthrall NYC: gin and jam. Housemade jams, served in a little teaspoon alongside gin and lemon over crushed ice.

316 Bowery
New York, NY 10012
(212) 254-0350

http://www.doublecrown-nyc.com/

Roasted Chicken Zucchini Boats

I love zucchini boats - my father made them all the time growing up. We would generally make them with sausage but this one made with leftover chicken is just fantastic. Never throw leftover chicken away!

2 large zucchinis
1 cup of roasted chicken meat
1/4 cup of finely diced carrots
1/4 cup of finely diced celery
1/4 cup of finely diced onions
1/4 cup of white wine
1/3 cup of parmesean cheese
3 tbs of butter
salt and pepper

Preheat Oven to 350

Dice veggies and saute in pan with butter. After translucent add wine and chicken meat and cheese. Cook until mixed together and some of the wine has evaporated. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Cut zucchinis in half and hollow them out. Put zucchini flesh aside (you can cook this with wine and put back in the zucchini if you run out of filling.)

Bake in a for 45-60 minutes (depending on size of zucchinis - make sure foil and/or pan is greased properly)

Roasted Pork Tenderloin

Roasted pork tenderloins are a bit tricky - they can easily dry out in the oven if you leave them in too long. I usually try to counteract this by browning the pork on the stovetop and then roasting it covered in foil. You should defintely make this - even if its just 2 of you - the leftovers can be used for salads, sandwiches, and even breakfast.

1 lb. pork tenderloin

2 tbs of garlic powder

2 tbs of paprika

1 tbs of ground cumin

1 ts. of sea salt

1 bunch of sage

4 tbs of white wine vinegar

1/2 cup of water

 

For Meat:

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees

- Combine all spices (except sage) and roll tenderloin in spice mix.

- Brown the meat in a frying pan on each side for approx. 4 minutes each

- Remove meat from the pan and place in baking dish with water and vinegar. Place most of the sage underneath the pork (this will make a delicious broth for gravy) and place 3 springs of sage ontop of the meat. Wrap the dish in foil.

- Bake for 60-75 minutes (depending on the typical ‘hotness’ of your oven).

For Gravy:

- Warm 1 tbs of butter in the pan you used to brown the meat

- Add 1 tbs of Wondra to the butter and mix until melted.

- Slowly add the drippings from the baking dish into the mixture and cook under medium heat until thick

- After gravy is thickened, wring out the sage that rested on the bottom of the pork into the gravy. The juices from the sage should be a dark green and will add wonderful flavor.

 

10 Pantry Staples

There are certain foods I always keep in my pantry because they always help  me whip up a delicious last minute meal

1 - Dried Mushrooms

These are fantastic for a last minute dish. They add depth to just about anything. Stew, pastas, gravy, a roast, - you name it. There are a bunch of varieties but I always get porcini’s and if I’m really getting crazy with myself: morels.

2 - Vanilla Beans

Yes, they are expensive but a little goes a long way with these gems. They are perfect to perk up any dessert or fruit salad. A must for any kitchen.

3 - Sea Salt

Thanks to the good ol’ iodized salt we all grew up with, cases of goiters and thyroid gland problems have significantly dropped over the years…and we are all thankful. However sea salt is much more flavorful and you tend to use less of it. I’m not saying get rid of the trusted salt you use. Just try this one as well

4 -  Curry

Curry powders can add so much zing to a boring chicken/beef stew - they are worth picking up at the store. Curries usually include  - but are not limited to - turmeric, cumin, coriander, fenugreek, and red pepper. If you are one of those 10 people in the world who hate curry (and my father is one of them) you may skip this but if you are just not familiar with curry - try it.

5 - Lemons

I always get lemons every time I go food shopping and I am STILL always out of them at the end of the week. Lemons and limes add freshness to so many things: meat, poultry, fruit, vegetables, beverages, etc. Fresh lemons are much better than those ‘lemon in a jar’ bottles. Call me crazy but those bottles always taste like chemicals to me.

6 - Herbes de Provence

I’ll admit - this one can be a little costly. But its worth it in my opinion and it should last you a long time. It consists of lavender, savory, fennel thyme, and rosemary. If you are big into roasted chickens this is a must. It’ll perk up your chicken salads, roasted chicken breasts, grilled fishes, veggie stews, etc.

7 - Mustard

I’m not talking French’s Yellow Mustard - although there is nothing wrong with that. I love classic yellow mustard on hot dogs and sandwiches. But a really nice mustard  — whether its dijon (my personal fav) honey, whole grain, french/english, horseradish, chinese, or polish — can do wonders for homemade vinaigrettes, marinades, barbecue sauces, salad dressings, and glazes. Open yourself up to the wonderful world of the mustard seed.

8 - Garlic Powder

Ok, this one is almost a given but it needs to be mentioned. I’m Italian and my husband is half Puerto Rican. We use garlic powder ALL the time. Its not a replacement for fresh garlic and you shouldn’t use it as such. I do use it as a substitute for salt in mariandes, stews, dressings, rubs, etc. Always a necessity.

9 - Vinegars

I love using a dash of vinegar in many of my dishes. Whether its Apple Cider, Malt, Rice, Balsamic, or Wine, you can use them to season veggies, for mariandes, salad dressings, sauces, deglazes for gravy, etc.

10 - Low Carb Pasta

There are many nights when I don’t feel like having a  heavy meal or its late and I don’t feel like going grocery shopping. Low Carb Pasta is great for nights like these , it takes minutes to whip up and can go with anything. You can make a pasta sauce from just about anything you have laying around your house .

My Love of Asian Buns

“Come along inside… We’ll see if tea and buns can make the world a better place.”

-Kenneth Grahame, ‘The Wind in the Willows‘

I was introduced to the wonderful world of Asian buns - both steamed and baked -  when a new coffeehouse named ‘Honey Cabin’ opened up a few blocks away from my house. I remembering walking in for the first time and being hit in the face with a waft of sweet/savory bread aromas. It smelled amazing. I was already enthralled before I got to the counter to see the array of delicious bready foods on display. It soon became my favorite place on the Island to eat both for its delicious food and insanely cheap prices.

My One on One with Jacques Torres

Ok - maybe the title is a bit misleading. I did meet Jacques Torres - in fact I’ve met him twice - but I’ve never really sat down and talked to him. No one on one interview…as of yet. This brief blog is about the best hot chocolate I have ever had in my entire life.

I was getting an emergency passport (again) since I had lost mine and was about 10 days away from  flying to Montreal on business. The stress of taking a day off to get my passport and the possibility of leaving the country in less than a fortnight without one was working me up, so I decided to hit up the Jacques Torres Chocolate place on 350 Hudson (conveniently around the corner from the NY Passport Agency) to soothe my aggravated soul. It was 9:30am so I couldnt indulge too much. I have a strick policy of no truffles before noon - once you start down that path it’ll only end up with you eating a bag of a potato chips, 1/2 lb of prosciutto, and a cup of ice cream for dinner.

Anyway, I walked in and did my typical look around the store. It was completely empty — then again it was 9:30am on a Tuesday. I ordered my wicked hot chocolate to the guy behind the counter without really looking at him. It wasn’t until I heard in a French accent “Of course miss….brisk out today isn’t it??” did I realize it was Jacques Torres MAKING MY hot chocolate. Needless to say it was a perfectly balanced cocoa with a hint of spice…just how I like it. I have a lot of respect for a man who still works his stores by his lonesome at 9:30am even after all his success. Kudos Jacques!!

So next time your in the neighborhood (either DUMBO or Hudson) stop on into his place. Who knows, he might just be the one making your hot chocolate.

Location:
350 Hudson at King Street (1 block South of Houston)

Store hours:
Mon - Sat 9:00am - 7:00pm
Sunday 10:00am - 6:00pm

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